My friend Sasha, Dzebisashvili — great traveler. Actually, and without irony. I had a chance to walk with him sailing on different seas, from Sweden to Kamchatka. Zebic, as it is called by close friends, completely unable to sit still. From may the evening come home from work to find a tent and go to a forest near Moscow — to sit at the campfire. Or to take it out on the weekend in the Crimea on a motorcycle. Once we phoned and went in Konakovo, walk around the reservoir on a kayak. It was in Christmas. The next day was colder and we were frozen into the ice as “FRAM” in the polar sea.
And yet Zebic can fix any device, from an optical telescope to the printing machine and from the washing machine to electric. That’s just the electric guitar I needed to fix it. Call my friend — he’s out of range. And then suddenly received from him the following letter.
December 20, Jakarta, Java island
Pete, Hello! I’m in Indonesia, Jakarta. Frankly, he didn’t expect that. Go on a catamaran (I have not seen) to the Islands off the West coast of Papua (New Guinea). We are here until three. Denis you know, the guy from Irkutsk, we went to Sakhalin, the Kuril Islands and Kamchatka.
Captain, we will have Stas. He was a Muscovite, and his catamaran. Denis met him through the Internet. Called me and said that there is a man who is looking for companions for a hike on the island of Waigeo (Indonesia, West Papua). Stas is an experienced outdoorsman, in the last seven years, he long travels in Southeast Asia, learned to speak Indonesian and learned about their customs. Stas may long, very interesting and very quietly tell about his adventures — a soul mate.
of course, You ask me, what the hell am I to Indonesia flooded. You know, I sat there counting on his fingers how many times I’ve been on the White, Barents, Okhotsk, sea of Japan… Fingers quickly ended, and I realized that in this warm sea I was never. Something.
do Not be sad, will you all write.
December 21, Jakarta, Java island
Pete, Hello! I write in a hurry, still have Internet. Going on a bus full of Indonesians. Terrible tightness, the heat and no air conditioning. On the road of continuous congestion. Two hours after departure from the bus station was only a 15 minute walk away.
Settlements along the road stretch almost continuously, but of the slums in India, I’m here not yet seen. Sometimes passing a modern office or hotel complexes. On roads with mostly modern “Japanese” and a lot of mopeds, mostly quite fresh, from the “Honda” Yes “Yamaha”. In Moscow, if you see not a Chinese moped, he is 20 years old.
traffic is very dense. In standing in the traffic jam the bus go local aunts and sells frozen water which is applied to passengers heads. 400 miles on the route Jakarta — Semarang — Jepara managed to do it in 15 hours.
December 23, Jepara, Java island
In Caparo we arrived to pick up the inflatable tubes from the rafting boat and motor (Yamaha — 2 l/s). A year ago, Stas had left them in storage from a friend of the owner of the restaurant.
Is a coastal town, relatively quiet and clean. There is a small port. The beach is partially cleared from the unbearable sea of garbage. The campus of the faculty of fisheries and marine science Diponegoro University. Start on the edge of rice fields.
Jepara — city carvers. Whole streets are countless shops selling carved furniture or logs for its production. Mainly exhibited semi — neskorenyi and unpainted, from teak wood. I then came across two types of wood — soft or teak, or ironwood, which is impossible to drive a nail.
December 25, Jepara, Java island
Pete, Hello! It’s warm and palm trees along the roadside grow bananas. Yesterday dashed off to rent a scooter 200 kilometers. Wanted Stas to climb to the top of mount Muria, got to climb on the scooter. But confused about the roads on the mountainside and got to the cemetery, where, caught in a crowd of Muslims have been drawn into their sanctuary and a half hours stood in a queue to get out of there. It’s good that unlike the gloomy Chechens, Indonesians are very friendly. And they love to be photographed against a white person.
To the right trail and mineral springs reached only by four o’clock. Mineralization of water in the source is weak, the water is slightly sour. To the top it was another two hours go, and at six o’clock it’s getting dark here. Half an hour hurriedly clambered over the roots, stones, and clay, hoping somewhere to find the light between the canopy of huge trees, but in vain. On the way back, lost each other and they came back separately.
at four In the morning wakes the roar installed on the mosques of megaphones. Roar covers the city like a Banshee. But in many supermarkets, railway station and other places are safely dressed for the Christmas tree.
December 27, Surabaya, Java island
From Japery got on the bus to Surabaya is another 300 kilometrov. In Surabaya, we have to get on a boat and go by sea 2500 kilometers to the port of Sorong in West Papua. Planes are excluded because of the ban on the carriage of motors in Indonesia.
Surabaya is a large port city. Mostly low-rise. Individual high-rise buildings stick out from the clutter of the private sector. Despite 700 years of history of the city, old man in the eye is not evident. To get where to get need long to go on the bus. I went to the zoo — it is necessary to get acquainted with the local animals, which we then can meet. Especially impressed with the huge selenology crocodile. They say they are abundant on Waigeo where we, in fact, met.
December 29, Makassar (Sulawesi island)
Yesterday at four o’clock we left the port of Surabaya. The ship is called Km. Dobonsolo company Pelni. A fairly large cargo ship of the German construction 1993, with a displacement of 3.5 thousand tons, 145 feet in length, designed for two thousand souls. Rusty and dirty. We bought economy class tickets (class 4).
Looks like the fourth class as a large room full of single beds. There is a TV, outlets, and herds of cockroaches and mice. When you look at the wall or ceiling, like a screensaver on a computer screen — all the time something is moved.
Feed a Breakfast and a lunch of rice and small pieces of unskinned chicken or fish. Give water in sealed plastic cups. Is boiling water. There is a grocery kiosk and pushy hawkers of any food. Well, very expensive!
air Conditioning system or not, whether they are not working. But do not suffer from the heat. In recent days, was sick for a runny nose and throat and now I hope to get better. Yesterday was overcast, and occasionally raining. Today partly cloudy, +30. Lying on the upper deck in the shade.
Today I first saw flying fishes. They flocks and one by one jumped out from under the bow. Sometimes the fish are small, like a multicolored butterfly, and sometimes the size of a pigeon. Sometimes they fly over the water for ten seconds, periodically dispersing themselves tail on the water at low level flight. And sometimes, jumping out of the water, the fish immediately cuts into the next wave with a strong surge.
In Makassar mooring the ship were two hours, and I had to run into town. The town is not much different from the previous one. Less storied, wealthy, port, roads, concrete, lots of neat houses, a beautiful port building and a mosque nearby. Dirtier than our towns. Saw stored the details of several giant wind turbines — fragments of pillars and 40-metre blades. But to consider it once, afraid to miss the boat and back ran like a moose.
it was Dark, on the masts lit multi-colored lights. Yet the containers loaded at the stern — mount, the height of the bridge.
Managed to take a shower and sit on the deck in a wet tank top.
December 30, Bao Bao
the Ascent to the ship with the sunrise (in the morning) — includes speakers call mullahs prayer.
at 10: 30 local (UTS +8, Java UTS+7) entered the port of Bao Bao. – Toss: who in the city will go, and who to look after the bags left. As soon as the gangway touched the side of the ship run, like pirates on Board the ship, sweeping away the passengers, rushed the crowd of porters in bright uniforms (each port has its own color). After 30 seconds they filled everything and everywhere, like ants swarming around the ship, offering their services.
Bao-Bao I got a total of five minutes Jogging on the pier. The guys broke out of the hunger for fruit, and they are stuck on the market, having spent my time. I bought a jackfruit and pineapples. Parking, however, was shorter than stated.
Sun, Cumulus clouds, hot — I think at least +35. The town is small, scattered on the slopes of a low Goroshek. Tall buildings are not visible, five floors high. There are several large buildings, like the administration, hotel, mosque or school (school differs only by the presence of sports grounds).
After the departure be held for a total check of tickets: total cabins locked, locked, transitions between the decks and the ship security looking for birds.
ready to Go. The wind drove the waves with lambs. Prior to that, the wind varied from calm to weak. However, the wind is fair, and he was pitching.
December 31, the Java sea
Pete, Hello! Congratulations to you and your girls a happy New year!
We go now to the sea Seram, and before that there was the Java sea, the Flores sea and Banda sea.
There are many Indonesians go in medical masks. In the polluted city that’s understandable, but they wear masks and in parks and even on the open deck of the ship. And fingers the natives wear huge rings made of painted aluminum.
a lot of smokers, Smoking in public, enclosed spaces, Smoking children.
Flying fish is more similar to dragonflies — long herring body and translucent wings shimmering pale colors. Near the side saw dolphins.
there was a heavy rain with a small thunderstorm. After the heat of the day very nice. Sitting on a bench, sheltered from the fresh wind over the container. Stas talks with native. He called himself an anthropologist.
Dennis and trying to figure out the necessary supply of water, food and gasoline. The cargo turns out on a ton. Combining this with the size of the catamaran (cylinders d 0,6 to 5 meters), just shrug our shoulders. Stas goes completely relaxed.
Next stop in the port of Ambon on the island, and until next year when we will not.
January 4, Sorong, West Papua (New Guinea)
Pete, Hello! Suddenly got the Internet. I mail program is used as a notebook — write everything.
Past sea Seram and January 1 at 10: 30 (UTC +9) entered the port of Sorong. From Ambon we almost all time went in mind of the Islands. The Islands are mountainous, some peaks reach up to Cumulus clouds. The slopes are densely wooded. In the sea and on the shore rocks are seen. The beaches, the less noticeable low cliffs, similar to clay or from Sandstone. The banks are often populated. In a sea of many boats. Cellular communication is caught from the upper deck almost everywhere.
In Ambon, I was able to run into town. Usual seaside town along the coast of the low houses, a pair of main streets, shops, hostels, offices, several Christian churches and mosques, schools, police, kindergarten. Dust and dirt not more than in our towns. People are friendly — the-counter greet you with a smile: “Hello, mister!” — like all other Indonesians, with whom we had a chance to chat.
In Ambon the ship took a solid batch of passengers. Many of them clearly papazovska appearance. They sprawled on all decks, stairways, passages, etc. Dennis is also located on the deck, because the cabin smoke constantly. Here we met the new 2018 by drinking about it from the coconut.
At the approach to the Sorong slight rocking of the ocean swell with the nose.
Sorong met by heat, from which the perspiration immediately streams flowed throughout the body. Sorong looks more provincial, although the city is rather big. The RAID is two dozen large ships, saw three gateline schooner and pantry boat-yacht. Scurry on sea fishing boats. They are long and narrow, with two outriggers made from plastic sewer pipes or logs 20 inches in diameter.
looks Like there is not easy. Saw police cars with bars from the rocks on the glass and the water cannons and machine for production of barbed wire.
While we were guarding things, Stas found a cheap hotel (300 rupees — 1500 rubles) for three and we moved to a stuffy room with a fan in the annexe above the stinking river.
Soon drew our fourth companion, a Japanese man with a guitar named Ken. He rides a Bicycle around the world and joined us only for a while. Hello, Ken put the bike in, lay on the floor and fell asleep. I liked him immediately.
morning arrived and our fifth companion Ivan. Ivan is about 30 years, the education entomologist. Having fallen in love in the eternal summer, he settled in Indonesia, learned Indonesian, and now earns a living working as a guide. A lot.
the next day we found a wonderful refuge at the time of Assembly of the catamaran and moved there. For this we must thank Denis. He literally pushed the Stas to talk to the owners, and everything worked out. Generally, in our fairly relaxed staff Denis is the most energetic and all customize.
owners — the family of the Papuans, very friendly. Weekly charged us 1 million rupees (5 thousand rubles), the food is still the same.
Located in an empty room of 15 by 15 meters — seems there used to be a shop. On the walls posters with horrible pictures of blackened and covered with sores of people and is any medications. Posters geckos running around saying, “well, well, well”.
On a tiled floor we set up the tents (mosquito) and organized the slipway. In the courtyard of manicured lawn. The hosts prepare food for us. Amenities — water bath, a toilet and a bucket. Want to wash, want to wash… Water for food separately.