Hubert de Givenchy was 25 years old when he founded his own fashion house and became at that time “the youngest designer” of France. In ‘ 68 he decided to retire and left the finale of the last show by inviting to the podium of its employees and saying goodbye to them. Forty-three years of constant labor of self-discipline, critical attitude to their own work — and well-deserved fame. In 2017 without much noise, the fans of high fashion marked the 90th anniversary of the master, and a year later he died quietly in his sleep. “Ribbon.ru” recalls a favorite designer of movie stars Audrey Hepburn and style icon Jackie Kennedy Onassis.
With the talent you can be born in any environment. To develop it — almost any. Of course, if you have diligence, perseverance, willpower and the desire to one — main — purpose. And if you help a happy occasion, of course. Marquis Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy was lucky, at the moment of birth. Fairy good luck literally stood at his cradle: he was born in the right family.
If the father of the Marquis de Givenchy was also born the Marquis, the mother was the daughter and granddaughter of artists. Her grandfather, Pierre-Adolf Baden not only painted pictures, but at the time was, as they say, a good Manager in the field of light industry. When he was appointed to head the manufactory of tapestries (a real tapestry, as opposed to just the trellis, there are only French like real champagne is only from champagne, so the tapestry — a national treasure), Baden established this business so well that he received for his services the order of the Legion of honor.
From his ancestors-the little Marquis Hubert inherited exquisite taste from his great-grandfather-the bourgeoisie — the dedication and hard work. However, given that severopeschanskaya aristocratic family from Givenchy Beauvais was Huguenot, it is possible to assume that there has not renounced the feasible labour, following the Protestant ideology. Mother of Hubert he was widowed, he became her friend and confidant, attentive student in art de vivre, “art of living”.
For a descendant of artists ‘ choice of school — Les Beaux-Arts de Paris national school of fine arts in Paris — is quite logical. It should be noted that the school was founded by Colbert, Prime Minister under Louis XIV and a great lover and connoisseur of decorative arts and lend it the light industry — the same tapestries of Lyon silk, sèvres porcelain and so on. Young Hubert chose a school where I taught not only to draw well, but also to create beautiful things. Including fashionable clothes, to which he had devoted his entire life.
In 25 years, returning to Paris after its liberation from German occupation, industrious and talented young aristocrat opened his own Studio on the Plaine Monceau and thus got the right to be called master, couturier and enter the ranks of the great. By analogy with the houses of these great, older contemporaries, and teachers Givenchy — Piguet Veil, and We Lelong, Chanel and Dior — his Studio also began to call home, which he remains to this day. Dior, by the way, ahead of the Givenchy five years: his first (and triumphant) collection, which determined the new look, “new look” fashion, was released in 1947.
If the hallmark Vorovskogo new look was the full skirt accentuates the slim cinch corset waist, Givenchy preferred a more loose silhouette and freedom from corsets, which were not needed, provided a tailored look that hides small figure flaws. The first bestseller Givenchy is a white blouse “Bettina”. He named it in honor of fashion models Bettina Graziani, the first of his muses, which he had a few over a long career. Givenchy is not fond of women in a sexual way: they were his clients, friends, colleagues (Graziani, for example, has worked as a model, but also the press Secretary of his home) and inspirational.
So, We taught him the craft, with all his small details and particulars: pricecat, rastakat, vitacit to tailor it three different verbs. It Hubert learned to sew blouses: Elsa, We ordered him a separate line, where, in addition to blouses, included other fluorescent items of clothing — skirts, jackets and pants. And a female journalist, the Grande Dame of fashion magazines — the fashion Director of Elle magazine, Ellen Lazareff and editor of the American version of Harper’s Bazaar Carmel snow, the first noticed and appreciated his debut collection in 1952: it lines, free and at the same time adjusted cut, strict selection of colors (mostly black-and-white monochrome) and the ideal selection of fabrics.
However, and their male friends Hubert studied and drew inspiration. In this sense, perhaps the main for the Givenchy man in the first half of his life was a Paris couturier Spanish-born Cristobal Balenciaga, whom Hubert met by chance in new York. “Embroidery of flowers, fuss with the details — it’s not couture — taught Balenciaga young friend and colleague. Couture — this is a simple dress with nothing but a line silhouette, but great lines and a perfect silhouette”. Balenciaga found for the student to place the Studio on the prestigious Avenue George V in the heart of the fashionable “Golden triangle” of Paris, and when in 1968 he closed his business, forwarded to its very money clients to Givenchy.
a single word to say about the clientele Hubert de Givenchy, for whom he created his dress “with a great line and the perfect silhouette” and which, in fact, made him a star, no less than fellow teachers and experts redactores. The first — and perhaps the most important of them — a young Audrey Hepburn, a Hollywood starlet, he is the same still essentially a novice designer, put on for the movie Billy Wilder’s “Sabrina” in 1953. Then the name Givenchy was not even in the credits, although the costumes (and artist costume designer of this film Edith head) received the “Oscar”.
However, his friendship with Hepburn sincere and real, not just a friendship client and tailor — was worth a dozen Oscars. Forever young, thin, like a girl, elegant and aristocratic even in a black turtleneck, slacks, Capri pants and ballet flats (which, by the way, she introduced fashionable — flat shoes compensated for her relatively high for those times growth), Hepburn was Givenchy close in spirit and in origin too. Among her ancestors were aristocrats, she was born in Belgium, the country of hard-working bourgeois, the mother of a child brought up in her performance, but the occupation accustomed to temperance without destroying an optimistic Outlook on life and goodwill.
On the question, what is the secret of success, Givenchy invariably answered: “friendship.” Hubert and Audrey were friends for almost the entire career of fashion designer until her death in 1993. He wore it for “Funny face” (1957), “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” (1961) and “How to steal a million” (1966), and the release of every film, naturally provoked sales growth. In his private life, Hepburn is also sewed at Givenchy. Her fashion designer dedicated his first perfume edition is floral-aldehydic and powdery L’interdit, the perfect evening fragrance, a best seller in 1957.
In the 1960s and early 1970s in the United States sold about 70 percent of production is presented, and the reason was not only the popularity of the “funny faces” Hepburn. A fan of simple silhouettes Givenchy was the wife and then widow of President Kennedy, Jacqueline, or Jackie. The status of the first lady she, following the then unwritten rule, refrain from non-us clothing designers, but wears her Oleg Cassini imitated Givenchy. Broad and not too high Jacqueline was Capri pants and Raglan sleeves, neat clothing without unnecessary detail, and it was all the Frenchman.
in addition to Jackie, who after the death of her first husband married a millionaire Onassis and American first lady became one of the richest women in Europe at Givenchy, there were other very rich clients belonging to almost inaccessible to ordinary mortals secular elite, the Café Society of Old and New world. The head of Rochas and a collector of contemporary art, Ellen Roche, the infamous and elegant Duchess of Windsor Wallis Simpson, Countess Bismarck, the designer Beatriz Patino, widow of the legendary Humphrey Bogart movie star Lauren Bacall. And billionaire Bunny Mellon, a friend of Jackie Kennedy, the patron and landscape architect: in her manor in Touraine at Givenchy had his own room, she planned out the garden on his estate, and he sewed her costumes to work in the garden.
For all these very wealthy, held personal and professional, outstanding and distinctive women Givenchy was not just a tailor: he was a man of their circle, Marquis, expert on art de vivre, a breastplate and a guest of their noisy, although closed, parties and balls, which helped arrange. Designer well versed in Antiques, could recommend a Sevres vase or a table from the bull — and advise on how to combine these rocaille Curling pieces of Louis XV with the works of contemporary at that time sovriska — for example, Warhol or Giacometti from the collection of Roche (by the way, her collection, a total estimate of 8 million euros in 2012, with the noise gone under the hammer at Christie’s).
the collection of the Givenchy era by the master himself, by the way, also enjoy success at auctions. In 2006, the bidding went one of the most famous dresses of the twentieth century — a narrow sheath of black satin with a slit to mid-thigh, made for the heroine Hepburn in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” and printed in millions of magazines and posters. For the dress at Christie’s auction gave almost a million dollars, is seven times higher than the estimate. And it was worth it. In 2013, although with less benefit, the same auction house sold the dress Audrey from the 1964 film “Paris, when there is heat.”
How did you respond to is the Creator of the dresses is unknown. He called himself an “eternal student” and the former is essentially a workaholic (he went to work as his Protestant ancestors went to the workshops and manufactories, every day at seven in the morning for 43 years), left the fashion scene when he realized that nothing else can offer her. He has not rested on its laurels, not speculating on past glory and achievements of his creative youth. July 11, 1995, at the end of the show in the Paris salon at the Grand hotel (now the hotel InterContinental), designer not only came to the podium, but also brought back 80 of its employees in white blouses, reminiscent of his debut, became his happy, “Bettina”, and asked the guests to applaud that of his unnamed co-authors.
“I’m going to stop sewing dresses but will not cease to make discoveries,’ said an elderly fashion designer. — Life is like a book. You need to be able to turn the page”. As critics say, chamber and aristocratic Hubert de Givenchy has become irrelevant in the era of fashion companies, one of which engulfed his house, these “industrial bulldozers”. It was replaced by more commercial names, Galliano, Julien MacDonald, Riccardo Tisci. For some time the house was led by no less original, but totally different in spirit couturier — British rednek, the controversial genius of Alexander McQueen. In the spring of 2017 and for the first time in the history of the house of Givenchy, they leads woman, the Briton Clare waight Keller.
“Hubert de Givenchy was not only one of the most influential figures in fashion history, whose legacy continues to inspire contemporary creativity, but also one of the most elegant and charming men I ever met — said waight Keller in a farewell address in memory of the founder of the house, which she now heads. — He is the epitome of a true gentleman, and that will forever remain in my memories.”
“I never wanted a house of haute couture, is recognized at the time, Givenchy. I wanted to open a charming boutique where women could dress simply, but with imagination. I wanted to offer clothing of quality, but inexpensive fabrics, which is comfortable to wear even in the journey”. Something similar would like to wear modern women are tired of excessive luxury couture houses, on the one hand, and cheap junk products of the mass market.