A test machine

In Basel, Switzerland continues one of the largest jewellery and watch fairs such as BaselWorld. Jaquet Droz, which is preparing to celebrate its 280th anniversary, has introduced a new watch with automaton and an automaton that can “forge” the signature of the owner. A lot of interesting things revealed and other brands. The Correspondent Of”.ru” continues to follow the novelties.

the Most important novelty of Basel is the oldest manufactory of steel was announced even before the exhibition complex Tropical Bird Repeater watch in a huge gold 47 mm case (smaller would just not contain the whole zoo on the dial). According to representatives of the company, watchmakers and master enamel craftsmen sought to reproduce the atmosphere and the colors of the paintings of Gauguin. The plumage of birds-automaton (a Hummingbird and a peacock) painted in the technique of hot enamel. In the same way artists depicted the manufactory leopard, waterfall and jungle that surround them. If you click on a special button on the watch, automatons are set in motion: Hummingbird waving a wing, the peacock spreads its tail, the waterfall is flowing and so on. This is due to the complex manufacture calibre RMA89 manual wind movement. Watch released edition of eight copies only for the most successful collectors.

Another novelty manufactory demonstrates the ability of the Jaquet Droz artisans working with stained enamel Plique-à-jour. The model Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clara shifted in position “2 hours” miniature calibre, the manufacture uses in its women’s watches Lady 8 Flower, is a work of art: dial — microlitres of gold of fine workmanship with a stylized image of tiger muzzle of enamel in brown or blue colours (both versions released in a limited edition of 28 instances).

Another new feature is the Grande Seconde Skelet-One — an unusual interpretation of a landmark for the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde models with openworked mechanism. Platinum made fully laced (like gold rotor), at the same time I removed and Packed the ring body, so that nothing would distract from the contemplation of the mechanism. Hours and minutes are displayed on the sapphire crystal dial at the 12 o’clock position, overlaid on a gold basis.

Women Jaquet Droz has proposed several new products in the new collection miniature clock with 25 mm dial Lady 8 Petite, and the most romantic of them, in pink gold with mother-of-pearl dial adorned with diamonds and cabochons of green jade.

Jewelry and watch house of Harry Winston was traditionally presented as jewelry watches, and models with complications. So, in ardecolini line Avenue Classic Aurora appeared feminine with colored sapphires: blue and pink. In model pink gold case is decorated with pink sapphires baguette-cut diamonds in white gold — blue. They also decorated the wristlet in a characteristic arch form.

a New watch to connoisseurs of mechanics Histoire de Tourbillon 9 triple axis tourbillon and retrograde functions, jumping hours and retrograde minutes display to celebrate the ninth anniversary of the release of Harry Winston watches with this complication. The tourbillon is placed in through a window and rotates freely in all directions. Due to this, the descent gets a virtually infinite number of operating positions, and to ensure accuracy. Watch equipped with calibre HW4504 designed specifically for Histoire de Tourbillon 9, and released in 20 copies: 10 in white gold case and the same in pink.

Collection Ocean, which this year marks 20 years, supplemented with commemorative 20th Anniversary model Ocean Biretrograde 36mm Automatic 36 mm white gold case. With a jeweler’s point of view, it impresses with a selection of stones for the decoration of the dial and gold rotor used, rare Paraiba tourmalines stones of celadon. From the point of view of time remarkable technology implementation seconds and day of the week, they show retrograde counters in the 8 o’clock position and in position “4 hours”, respectively.

Brand Gucci made a gift to divers: a new model in the collection HydroConquest. It is a watch-trekhstranichnyi in housings with a diameter of 41 and 43 mm and 41 mm chronograph. The bezels (an extremely important part of all diving models, because it made the cutoff at the time of surfacing) made from high-tech ceramic. Hands and hour markers coated with Super-LumiNova and are highlighted in grey, black or blue dial with a guilloche sunburst pattern. Watch is available in two versions: metal bracelet with brushed and polished links or the rubber strap matching the dial.

Deposit and sport collection Conquest quartz watches: chronograph mechanism Conquest V. H. P. perpetual calendar. The main advantage of any of quartz, it provides a analog clock with a high precision (± 5 seconds per year). Chronograph Longines also able to repair the hands after impact or exposure to a magnetic field through the use of the system GPD (gear position detection, the position detection mechanism). Among the several versions of the design of the dial of the new watch is the “masculina” — with a carbon fiber dial, reminiscent of the racing.

Following popular already not the first year retratando, the company Longines has reissued in 2018 another archive model — this time diving watch 1960. The new Longines Legend Diver Watch in black 42 mm stainless steel with PVD coating, black dial and a black rubber strap with imitation of the Milan weave is equipped with a movement calibre L888.

the Breitling company has experienced many changes after its CEO in the middle of last year was George Kern, who previously headed the brand IWC Schaffhausen. The logo of the brand wings disappeared, leaving only the laconic uppercase letter B, of the marketing strategy was missing a few sexist “fan service” with the girls in style pin-up on the facade of the Basel stand no more of the giant aquarium, which attracted crowds of spectators. While in all that relates to watchmaking tradition and quality, the brand is going to preserve and multiply all the best.

So, at BaselWorld-2018, the company showed chronometer Breitling Navitimer Super 8, based on historical Reference model 637 with a stopwatch, which in 1930-1940-ies pilots wore on her hip. In Navitimer Super 8 watchmakers Breitling have recreated the distinctive features of its prototype: large size (diameter housings from steel or titanium is an impressive 46 mm) and the accuracy (COSC certified). Watch equipped with calibre MT 5612.

Chronograph Navitimer 8 is equipped with an automatic Breitling Caliber 01 with a three-dimensional shift mechanism that controls the functions start, stop and reset the stopwatch. When the oscillation frequency of 4 Hz balance the level of accuracy of the mechanism reaches a quarter of a second. The model Héritage Superocean II Chronograph 44 develops launched in 2017, the line in honor of 60 anniversary of Breitling diving watches. The novelty is available in several versions: Ocean Classic with black dial and steel bracelet, the Aero Classic with blue dial and blue rubber strap. For connoisseurs there is also an option of steel and red gold with a black dial.

the Japanese manufacturer Casio celebrates 35 anniversary of the brand’s bestselling G-Shock. As usual, the Japanese brought in Basel updates all their time the rulers, both luxury and budget. Among the first model G-Shock MR-G-G2000HA: at its creation designers were inspired by the ancient art of Japanese gunsmiths “Tetsu-tsuba” (the making of iron protective guards for traditional Japanese sword-katana). In the limited edition novelty only 350 copies. Housing upper part, made of alloy “Murasaki-Ghana” deep purple shade, which includes gold, in the technique of “araci-zosime” trimmed by hand of the master under the leadership of Asano, Bio, a specialist in traditional technology “zwiki” (a kind of coinage).

did the Japanese engineers and on the technology shock. In the new watch line MTG-B1000 they used an upgraded high impact design that benefits from a combination of metal and polymer. The basis of the solution — technology Core Guard Structure of the last generation. Inside the casing there is a metal frame that holds the module mechanism. In the model series of the previous generations, the frame consisted of four tubes, and the new technology, the bezel and rear housing cover connected to the flat parts. The case became stronger and acquired a dynamic profile.

New this year the brand G-Shock — metal version of the first shockproof watches. What the Japanese managed to realize the concept of crashworthiness in full metal body is a special achievement. In addition to the version in plain steel and steel with ion gold plating, they brought in Basel variations on the iconic quadrangular model GMW-B5000, released in collaboration with other Japanese brands, in particular with the clothing brand kolor and Luggage manufacturer Yoshida & Co. (mark Porter).

In the line of sports watch Edifice new model series ECB-800 in three design variants, addressed to the racers and fans of auto – and motorsports. This is the advanced analogue clock with enhanced functionality display lap time on the ring racing and a large LCD display: it is very convenient for the duration of the race.