To the right of the right

last week “the Tape.ru” talked about the history of the style of the subculture of skinheads in her homeland in the UK in 1960-70-ies. This time we will talk about fashion, Russian skinheads who, unlike the British were largely nationalist views since the late 1980s to the present day.

— Why are you wearing Levi’s? Levi’s your Yid jeans. — Because when I came back from Iraq, my brother got me these jeans. Do they understand what we are fighting? No. But I certainly will not allow the Zionist conglomerate to decide what to wear. the Movie “Absolute power” 2016

the Right-wing and ultra-right movement in Russia began to emerge in the mid-1980s, and clothing, of course, was one of the important elements by which nationalists formed their image. The nationalist movement of the 1980s, like the society “Memory” came from “the Society of protection of monuments”. The movement rethink historical processes, the participants engaged in reconstruction and wore a “white” form, mostly consisting of modified forms of the Soviet army.

Later had his own form of a military sample consisting of black shirts with epaulets, black trousers tucked into black barren boots, black tunic with stand-up collar and epaulets. Used winter overcoats, caps and cap with oval cockade “Royal” sample. Button was not the Soviet star with hammer and sickle, and the tsarist double-headed eagles. Popular was the reconstruction of the Cossack uniforms. It is now the people in the Cossack form have become standard landscape of the urban environment, but at the end of the 1980s, they looked very shocking.

to replace the “monuments” came more militarized barkashovites. Dress code this formation consisted of black uniforms, berets, military boots and armbands. Many in the movement, especially in the regions, wore a standard military uniform, which was brought from the army or bought in the nearest Voentorg.

In Russia the fashion for retroporno form quite quickly gone, but in the US it still has a place in our days, the members of the National socialist movement (NSM) conduct their meetings in the form of explicitly copies the form of the Nazi party last century. Ku Klux Klan remains true to the same white robes, and 150 years ago.

Military style is the hallmark of the right wing in the United States. And it’s not so much a craze as a lifestyle — the same way of life, which said the skinheads 1960-70-ies in the UK. Many right-wing skins, especially in the United States, passed military service. In Germany does systematically uncover neo-Nazi cell in the ranks of the Bundeswehr.

In the end, the military form was, and remains, an important element of the right skinhead fashion all over the world. Right in the United States, as a rule, closely connected with militarized radical structures, the type of civil police. Fashion these people formed the military stores in the neighborhood.

it is Not surprising that in January 2017, a shop selling weapons placed ads, which were shown prospective customers, the opposing crowd of anti-fascists. The poster featured the inscription: “anti-Fascists, today is not your day.” Many contemporary brands are focused on the right audience, have in their collections things in a military style. Moreover, now you can watch the rebirth favorite brand of skinheads of the 1990s Alpha Industries, who initially made clothes for the Armed forces of the United States.

Revived the fashion of bomber jackets today’s designers by including them in their new 2013 collection. Alexander McQueen, Dior, Victor&Rolf offer bomber jackets made of leather with contrast cuffs and buttons. Stella McCartney has developed a version of the bomber jacket, made of lace, silk and cashmere. Designers Pinko has not abandoned a lightweight version of the jacket, stitching together her nylon mint hue and was decorated with lace inserts and embroidery at back.

School bell… First lesson. a Bomber jacket and a knife. beat the devil, all destroyed!

Tsunar first took this knifeBomber saved you to be your best friend.With his bomber jacket dripping blood did bribed the COP.metal Corrosion, “beat the devil”

In the early 1990s in right ranks came mostly from the fan movement. While in Russia, these subcultures for the most part were inextricably linked. A large part of the right-wing mods refused to take part in major movements, the type of RNE (“Russian national unity”) and their baggy form were very skeptical. The main attribute of the skinhead 1990s was a bomber or field jacket M65. The original jacket was able to purchase a few because of the high prices — the bombers are much more expensive than leather jacket from Turkey, who were muggers and mobsters of all stripes.

Soon the demand has generated the offer, and markets in many cities were cheap Chinese black bomber with the famous orange lining. Their prices were more than reasonable. These jackets were worn almost year-round: in winter under them wore a warm knitted grandma sweater. The original M-65 jacket had no collar to the pilot to make it easier to place the straps of the parachute. In the environment of the skinheads walked the bike that this was done deliberately in order to fight the enemy couldn’t grab you by the collar.

Orange leather lining also had its own functionality. She needed the pilot in case of emergency landing: he had to turn the jacket so that it can be easier to find from the air. Fans turned their jackets, so it was easier to figure out who his apprentice in a fight. According to one version, inventors this was Spartak hooligans from “company” Flint’s Crew.

In very severe frosts a wound on his neck “rose” (scarf) of your favorite team.

In the course were camouflage pants, which were acquired in the market because of the presence there of fashionable colors in contrast to dull baggy green products from the px. Especially advanced users invariably wore jeans of blue color, but again, in view of their cost is widely spread especially in the regions, they have not received. Finishing touch — army boots. In the province, many marched them up to 2000 years.

Also can not ignore the use of such accessories like suspenders. The most relevant were suspenders in the colors of the Russian or the German tricolor. Then came the fashion for narrow braces, which was a real deficit. Braces was not just a element of the wardrobe — stocking suspenders meant “fighter ready to fight”, so many wore suspenders exclusively as such, emphasizing his brutality.

the First store of the company “Doctor Alex” — “Shoes of the XXI century” started its work on 1 October 1998 in the metro area “Voykovskaya”. This is truly a landmark event that finally opened the Moscow public access to the famous shoes Dr. Martens, Grinders and Shelly’s. The most popular Grinders boots with a high shaft and unchanged metallic glass. Similar shoes were worn by the protagonist of the film “American history X” in the famous scene of the murder of an African American, entered the folklore as “bite the curb”.

This scene is a direct guide to action for many skinheads at that time. “Grinder” literally flying off the shelves. However, unlike the Chinese bombers afford not everyone. A response to the popularity of “granderson” was the appearance of Russian firms Camelot. It has positioned itself as a Polish brand and made shoes that looked like the samples of British brands, but at much more affordable prices.

typically, the shoes worn with black laces, but the most desperate wore white who said that their owner cleared the land from the natives. A distant dream for many people who made the famous Panzer boots with swastikas and SIG runes on the soles, were released by the American brand Aryan wear. This dress code is a classic in the late 1990s and early 2000-ies. The reference image of the skinhead of those times included shoes with high ankle, camouflage pants or rolled up jeans, suspenders, a t-shirt with a radical image and a bomber jacket.

When the middle of 2000-ies the ultra-right movement became radicalized, and for a crime motivated by ethnic hatred began to give serious time, like fashion has come to naught. At the end of the decade similarly dressed already antifa skinheads who tried thus to revive the spirit of 1969. The youth who remains true to the traditions of this fashion, you can find now, but regard it only as a cosplay of those times.

the Fashion for heavy boots came to naught. American right brand Aryan wear closed. Shelly’s with his famous model Rangers specializiruetsya on women’s shoes, and Grinders began producing cowboy boots. The only brand that has stayed true to its roots and managed to survive in the competition, began Dr. Martens. Moreover in 2010 the brand opened its second wind: classic boots model 1460 began to appear in the wardrobes of men, far removed from the skinhead fashion. Dr. Martens were seen Jared Leto, Robert Pattison, Alice Erskine and other stars of the first magnitude.

However, in the UK the traditional style of skinhead preserved. Meet the family, where the skinhead tradition passed from father to son. Of course, instead of Chinese fakes of European skinheads who adhere to tradition, are the original Dr. Martens jeans Levi’s, Polo or plaid shirt Fred Perry and original jacket Ben Sherman. This style has long been not to say anything specific about the political views of the person

I Remember now cool, I Have your Lonsdale. had I Bought it at the “Children’s world”, Clock work times — Lonsdale

“five minutes passed another mob, explicitly seeking to merge with the first. And one in ten. Mostly, it was young, 20 years old, guys dressed in the fashion of their hardcore: shirt plaid, blue jeans, sneakers. Our favorite weapons of govnodav with titanium, almost no one was, but most of the fighters were carrying packages, and all were holding a glass bottle. Well, the strategists, the scribe on your shaved head!” is a line from the book “Die lady” Sergei Sakin Spyker, which he wrote in 2003.

About this time, hooligans and right-wing skinheads began to move away from fashion to heavy boots and bomber jackets. There are several reasons:

— gain control law enforcement for extremist groups. This kind of clothes definitely aroused suspicion and was called “pale” or “to go to the eight ball”. Serious “action” in this uniform conduct became impossible, as every policeman had orientation on skinheads.

with the advent of affordable Internet. With plenty of Internet clubs inquisitive lovers of extremism have been able to access the desired information on right-wing movements in Europe and the United States.

— the country out of the crisis and the appearance of the population on travel abroad. The first travellers were football hooligans who brought to Russia the fashion for the casual style.

— a simple convenience. It turned out that to fight, go to football games and concerts is much easier in sneakers and sweatshirts than in heavy boots.

— the appearance of a certain dress-code, pozvolyayuschei to distinguish from the crowd of its own.

the First garment that began to flow into Russia, brought football fans. Due to high prices one of the main places visited “Viesturi”, was not the bars, and second-hand stores, where fans were buying to the fullest. Many professionals manage to recapture their trips due to the resale of clothing. Place wholesale purchases have also become second-hand markets in Kharkov (on the street Heroes of Labor) and Kiev (shuliavska market). Moreover, the shopping can be combined with a visit of far-right concerts “Perun fest”, “a Concert in memory of Ian Stuart” and “Rotation”.

the Skinhead that time could easily be dressed in Levi’s jeans, often only in the wardrobe due to high prices and a plaid shirt Burberry. Another turning point for the fashion of right-wing skinheads was the opening of two stores Lonsdale: on the fourth floor of the “Children’s world” on Lubyanka square in one of the lanes of the Arbat. These places were required to visit all the guests who came to the matches of your team. The price of Lonsdale was so high, and the “rightness” of this brand almost no one doubted.

In the first half of the 2000s, the Russian skinhead wardrobe consisted of sneakers (ideal New Balance), blue jeans (preferably Levi’s brand) t-shirts or plaid shirts (Lacoste, Fred Perry, Merc, Lonsdale, Ben Sherman), and baseball caps. Often these brands are popular among football hooligans of Europe, but among the skinheads of the Old world, except for a couple items, they are not as popular.

the Second half of the first decade of the 2000-ies was characterized by the radicalization of the right wing. Due to intensification of the fight against extremism a lot of the right-wing has gone deep underground and completely abandoned any fashion. These were the years of terror that gave us the names of Nikola Korolev, Maxim bazyleva, Dmitry Borovikova and many others. For these people, which formed the right opinion of youth, the question of style was secondary. The basic idea of “direct action”. All of the above characters wore the most inconspicuous clothing to blend in with the townsfolk. The maximum that they could afford, is to dress in camouflage at the camp, which was held in the woods.

This resulted in a short fashion laconic black style in clothes. The national socialists from the “Black block” and Wotanjugend encouraged to come to the Russian March in 2015, in black clothes and masks is to use sunglasses. Some activists dressed this way in everyday life. Dark trousers, jumpers for “phantom” or “ninja” covering the face, black glasses. The revolution did not happen, and the crowd this style has attracted even more attention than the odious bombers, and quickly disappeared.

Closer to 2010 right movement was faced with another blur of the dress code. The casual style also began to use beginners to gain strength anti-fascist groups. As a fashionable response to this had emphasized the right brands of clothes, which included military and casual style. Perhaps one of the most famous among them was the brand Thor Steinar.

the First time this is a rare brand to get was not easy. Nevertheless, he came to taste the right audience, since clearly opposed itself to the rest of “narrow-minded” brands, and for anti-fascists was that a red rag to a bull.

In Europe, due to the lack of radical confrontation on the streets, war between the right and left flowed in fighting brands. Several anti-fascist organizations, in particular, has initiated a number of proceedings in which Thor Steinar even had to change the logo. However, in the right environment with these claims brand was growing in popularity until 2009, when part of the shares owns the company was acquired by an investor from Dubai.

the Ensuing wrecking of shops and continued claims by anti-fascists badly battered nerves of the owners, who began to deny the existence of any ties with right environment. According to the new positioning of the brand was presented to the public as non-political.

Despite this, until now, the Thor Steinar logo can be seen on members of far-right marches the visitors of concerts of right-wing performers and even the deputies of the Saxon state Parliament from the National democratic party of Germany (NPD). Taking advantage of the shaky position of Thor Steinar, in Germany, arose two brands of clothes, absolutely do not hesitate the right direction: Erik and Sons and ANSGAR ARYAN. And if the “Erik and sons” relied on the pagan heritage, the brand ANSGAR ARYAN went ahead and released the jacket with a zipper on the back which sported the words Swastika.

this symbol is prohibited by the laws of almost all European countries, but the law didn’t say anything about the inscription. In the new decade the right brands began to appear in almost all European countries, and each of them had its own distinctive national characteristics whether it is Serbian Otadzbina (“Fatherland”), Pretorian Polish or Hungarian Warrior.

Fixed the right brands in Russia and Ukraine “Beloyar” and SVA STONE began its journey with the production of themed t-shirts to various concerts. With the increasing popularity and momentum, “Beloyar” began to produce coats, children clothes, jackets, anoraks, pants and all your favorite bombers. Now their collection is even present leather bomber jacket for 30 000 rubles. Ukrainian brand SVA STONE was also able to move from sewing shirts to the production of such technologically sophisticated clothes like dresses, shirt, children’s clothing and camouflage.

Thus, the fashion of right-wing skinheads in the former Soviet Union has come a long way from copying historic military uniforms and parasitism on well-known brands to create their own fashion Pantheon.